Why it probably pays to make trouser muslins out of non-transparent fabric…

… although it’s not like I’m going to leave the house in them, so I don’t suppose it really matters, actually.  And to be honest, they don’t look nearly so see-through in the pictures as they do in real life.  In the mirror you can see my knickers horribly clearly.  Suffice it to say, they will be destroyed as soon as I’ve sorted the fit…

These are Gertie’s Capri Pants, Butterick B5895:

B5895

‘On which the Envelope Styling soars far above the Average Modern Pattern Envelope Horror Show’…

I’ve been coveting Vivien of Holloway’s 1950s Jeans for EVER, and these capris are pretty much as close to them as any sewing pattern I’ve seen.  Time to get over my fear of sewing trousers…  I’ve made up the muslin in calico, as I’ve only got 1.5m of denim in my stash, and i don’t really want to go getting any more right now – I expect there will still be fit issues which become apparent once I’ve made them up in the denim and worn them a few times, but I want to at least iron out the really obvious problems first.

I’ve made up a straight size 16 which is the size I would make in a top or dress, and then take out the waist seam a little.  Having read other makers reviews of this pattern (Rochelle, Coo, Bea and Jane, I’m sure there are others!), the general consensus is that they come out a bit on the large side, so even though my waist is 32″, I thought the 16 (to fit waist 30″) would be the best starting point.  The actual dimensions printed on the pattern pieces tell the same story – the 16 is 32 1/2″ at the waist, while the 18 is 34 1/2″.  That’s way too much ease for such a fitted style, in my opinion!

Anyway, here’s my Super Sexy pair of calico capris:

Yes, I know the stitching on the zip is diabolical.

Fit issues are as follows:

  • The waist is fairly tight, but I can live with this, as it’s part of the look of these trousers for me.  Also, having spent my life buying jeans that fit me, only to realise 2 weeks later that they’ve worn in and are now MASSIVE, I know to start off with them tight!
  • The pocket cutouts, where the structure is necessarily slightly weaker, unfortunately coincide with my love-handles, so they accentuate each other rather unpleasantly.  Whilst I appreciate honesty in a person, not so much in my clothes, you know?  I may take out the top 6 inches of the side seams slightly.
  • The back crotch is very tight, which has the doubly unfortunate effect of a) making it impossible to sit down, and b) making me look like I have no arse.  Which is true (here we go with the honesty again, trousers!), but that’s not necessarily the impression I want to create…  Any clothing which makes my stomach look bigger than my bum, however true that may be in reality, is just not doing its job!  I’ll have to give myself quite a bit more room back there, especially as my denim has noooo stretch.
  • The legs are perfect – I don’t like them super-tight, so I’m happy with that!

Quite frankly, I’m really happy with this kind of fit from my first muslin of my first pair of trousers. Yay :).  So onwards and upwards, once I’ve messed about with them a little I should be able to show you the finished article.  I have to say I’m not overly sold on the back zipper, but I think the side seam would pull out of shape if I put it there instead, unless I stitched the bottom of the pocket onto the front piece to hold it firm.  It might be worth it for a future pair, as I think the back zip looks like I’ve just put them on back to front…

Have a good week everyone!

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