Another Portrait Blouse…

Wow.  This is actually my final muslin, after a round of fitting that didn’t end up solving the problem I was trying to fix, but did at least improve the fit in other areas…  By this stage I was just sooooo bored of making blouses up in old curtain lining, I risked my final draft on some poly-cotton gingham instead.

With the fitting, I was trying to get rid of the weird flap of extra fabric in the middle of my back – I tried a sway-back adjustment, but a) I don’t actually have a sway-back, so I was a bit sceptical it would work, and b) I think I need to have a few practices at this, as it sort of worked a bit, but then pulled the side-seams out of line.  I suppose I didn’t re-draft properly after taking out a wedge.  Hmm.

Anyway, I abandoned that, and concentrated on getting the fit right width-wise, as my first version of this is a bit baggy around the bust.  I cut the same size as before (10, and yes, I did make up a muslin in the 8 to see if it was a better starting point, but stuck with downsizing the 10 rather than upping the 8).  I took it in just over an inch around the bust, 3/4 ” at the waist and let it out an inch and a half at the hip.  I extended the front waist tucks up by 5/8″, which has mostly got rid of weird-fabric-shelf issue.  While I was looking at the fit, I also realised the bust darts needed moving downwards.  Readers, this was Not a Happy Moment, but still, I suppose the advantage of sewing is that you can have your darts where your bust actually is, rather than where you wish it was…  I actually think I’ve moved them slightly too far, so will hoick them back up a little next time.  The darts, that is….

Fit-wise, I’m really happy with this – it still has a bit of loose fabric in the back, but I’m wondering if that is an inherent problem with the tucks releasing where they do?

I couldn’t be bothered with closures, so I just cut it on the bias as I had plenty fabric, which is ACE.  It looks like a fitted blouse, but you just yank it over your head!  I like.  A lot.

I french-seamed the lot, for durability, and finished the neckline and armholes with bias tape left over from my first blouse.  After getting a blouse AND and headscarf out of 1m of fabric, there were only scraps left but it’s so pretty I couldn’t waste it!  I skipped the understitching on the neck, which was a mistake, as it rolls out ever so slightly.  Noted…

Yes, my tablecloth is also gingham.  Don’t judge me.



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